The only way to see the Amalfi Coast next summer

IN JOHN Steinbeck’s widely-read dissertation of Positano for the Harper’s Bazaar May 1953 issue, the American writer — who was then at the height of his fame — famously documented his experiences of the majestical coastline in ways that hadn’t been done before; Steinbeck pulled the curtain back on what was then Italy’s best-kept secret.

“‘Positano bites deep,’ wrote Steinbeck for BAZAAR. ‘It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.’

While he eloquently penned an ode to the romance of Positano, he failed to mention the other neighbouring towns which unequivocally rival the Amalfi Coast’s most popular destination.

For those that don’t know, the Amalfi Coast is a stretch of over 56 kilometres of regional bliss, dotted with 500-foot-tall cliffs, over 100 beaches and 13 uniquely different seaside towns which all differ in charm, character and offerings.

The Amalfi Coast really is heaven on earth, make no mistake about it. It’s here that clear skies and crystal waters intertwine; where the scent of lemon groves leave a fragrant trail; where one can languish in summer afternoons that roll effortlessly into aperitivo hour. Sure, it can be touristy, but don’t let its peak summer season deter you. Thousands will continue to flock here to holiday in style each and every year, but if you know where to go, what to do and what to see, dare we say you might even feel like the coast is your own.

Here is a curated guide on the must-do’s when visiting the region of Campania where the great Costiera Amalfitana awaits.

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Where to stay in the Amalfi Coast

Ravello: Caruso, A Belmond Hotel

Ravello, situated high on the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast that look out to the Gulf of Salerno, is an idyllic town to base oneself in. If arriving from Napoli, it’s one of the most accessible towns to reach. And really, there is only one hotel you should consider for endless days of ‘dolce far niente’: Caruso, A Belmond Hotel.

Arguably one of the most luxurious hotels on the coast, this former 11th-century palace exhibits every bit of charm and character that you’d imagine it to have. On any given day, take a stroll through the century-old gardens as you make your way across the sprawling property where three separate dining options reside – the Michelin-star Ristorante Belvedere, Ristorante Caruso and the Pool Grill. There’s a dedicated cocktail bar, too – Bar Caruso, where the head barman Tommaso Mansi will whip you up the famed Gimlet Caruso. For those seeking solace in wellness, there’s also a dedicated wellness and fitness centre. Of course, it would be remiss of us not to mention the renowned Caruso infinity pool – an architectural masterpiece and one of the most photographed locations on the property. It’s here that you’ll find yourself relaxing at the highest point above the town of Ravello, where it is as if you were swimming amongst the clouds.

The suites at Caruso are charming and nostalgic, too; they offer guests a tiny bit of history of the famed hotel that you can take with you on your travels. Above all, the service at Belmond Hotel Caruso is exceptional; not just in the sense that Italian hospitality is generally extraordinary, but the staff at Caruso go that extra mile to ensure all guests truly enjoy their stay.

Book your stay here.

Amalfi: Borgo Santandrea

If you’re venturing further along the coastline, you’ll hit the splendid town of Amalfi. Here, you can’t miss the first new hotel on the coast in 15 years, Borgo Santandrea. Built high up on a cliffside, the hotel’s overwhelming presence is felt as soon as you enter the little town of Amalfi.

No detail has been missed here at Borgo Santandrea; it has been immaculately re-designed from its 1960’s origins. Led by Italian architect Rino Gambardella, the new hotel blends a tasteful mix of artisanal Mediterranean style with elegant mid-century design.

As you walk into one of the 29 suites available, you will be greeted by an unspoiled view of the Amalfi Coast, including the enchanting, centuries-old fishing village of Conca dei Marini. You’ll also find works by local artisans and bespoke furniture by Gio Ponti, handmade tiles and eclectic antiques, all coming together effortlessly to create a truly spectacular setting that encapsulates the essence of a ‘home away from home’.

The hotel, which officially opened in April of this year after a meticulous four-year renovation, is owned by the Orlacchio and De Siano families, who bring generations of hospitality experience to the newest property on the Amalfi Coast.

Book your stay here.

Where to dine in the Amalfi Coast

Naturally, food is a big part of Italian culture. And that’s no exception on the Amalfi Coast. Sure, you might fall prey to the abundance of touristy haunts that will serve your average pizza and pasta dishes. And they might be great! But for truly delicious coastal delicacies that offer the best of Campania cuisine, there are a few destinations to everyone should consider when travelling to the Amalfi Coast…

Rossellinis at Palazzo Avino

Palazzo Avino, located at the top of Ravello’s old town, is home to one of the most exceptional dining experiences on the Amalfi Coast: Rossellini’s. Opened solely for dinner, this elegant and sophisticated Michelin-star restaurant not only offers panoramic sea views from each table setting but serves delectable Italian cuisine to match, with a specific focus on local produce and ingredients from the Campania region.

Mimì Ristorante Pizzeria

Another Ravello staple – but one that’s somewhat of a hidden ‘local’s’ secret – Mimi dishes up the best Neapolitan pizza that you’re likely to find outside of Naples itself. With only a few tables available each night, get in early to secure your spot amongst the lemon trees. The Pizza Di Avola is exceptionally tasty, as are the homemade pasta staples that rotate on the menu daily. Finish with some delicious homemade limoncello.

Aldo’s at Le Sirenuse

Located at the famed Le Sirenuse hotel in Positano, Aldo’s is a dedicated seafood grill and cocktail bar that’s an ideal location for an evening out with friends. Here at Aldo’s, you’ll find fresh-off-the-boat seafood, Neapolitan classics and perhaps the best tiramisù in Positano. It’s simple yet beautiful Italian food without the fuss.

Lo Scoglio

Located in Nerano in the commune of Massa Lubrense, this third-generation seaside restaurant offers some of the best examples of local cuisine. All of the produce is either plucked straight from the sea, or grown on the family property nearby. Of course, the Pasta Nerano is a staple of the town and region, and a must-try when visiting Lo Scoglio. 

Da Adolfo

One of the most famous restaurants on the Amalfi Coast is Da Adolfo, but it’s perhaps the hardest to get to. To secure your table, bookings are a must, but even so, you’re still likely to wait on arrival (don’t worry, the owners will offer free cups of wine). And to get there, you’ll need a boat — either your own or take the free shuttle service provided by Da Adolfo. Here on the small private beach of Positano, Da Adolfo will dish out its most famous menu items: zuppa di cozze (Mussel soup), pesce fresco alla griglia (fresh grilled fish), pollo alla Adolfo (Adolfo’s chicken), plus more.

Where to swim in the Amalfi Coast

Lido Degli Artisti – Amalfi

Lido Degli Artisti is a whimsical hideout on the Amalfi coast. Unless you’re a guest of the Belmond Hotel Caruso — which offer guests their own private beach cabana and umbrella — only locals will revel in its seclusion. What to expect at Lido Degli Artisti? Carefree afternoons. Fresh food. Slow lunches. Endless spritz. It’s here that you’ll also find waiters and lifeguards — pirate-like characters during the day, maybe Versace models at night — buoyed by their love for service and the water.

One Fire Beach – Praiano

Perhaps the most iconic and famous beach club on the Amalfi Coast, you can spot the classic orange umbrellas of One Fire Beach Club a mile away. It’s here at One Fire Beach that people come to revel in the atmosphere rather than sunbathe in peace and quiet; it’s loud, it’s crazy and it’s a little mad. Be sure to stick around for ‘Melon Time’; a weird but fun experience where, at 4:30pm each afternoon, waiters of the beach club will dance around a watermelon before cutting into said watermelon for all guests to enjoy.