EACH YEAR, thousands of sun-chasing Aussies abandon our brutal winter for a European summer. Or, as I like to call it Aperol season. But walks along the Seine, island-hopping in Croatia and those rite of passage visits to Harrods might look a little differently this time compared with pre-pandemic travels. The classic international holiday has not only drastically increased in price — our hunger for travel has never been greater since deprivation— but sees a few new visitor rules, such as the ETI’s visa, come into effect.

On the plus side, long haul flights have become that much more comfortable with the world’s most luxurious premium cabins being launched in Australia, courtesy of Emirates. The swish new offering is even touted as on par with business class in “some other airlines,” so you can travel in style without compromising on that clifftop stay at Caruso, A Belmond Hotel on the Amalfi Coast. BAZAAR breaks down all the Euro travel advice to ensure you live out your Euro fantasies with zero disruption.

Related: How to travel again

How expensive is a European summer holiday in 2023?

The travel advice is simple: don’t procrastinate, book now. European summer holidays have never been more expensive for Australians than in 2023, with fares almost 50 per cent higher than the same period last year — and increasing. The average price for a return economy flight from Australia to top Euro destinations like London or Paris has skyrocketed to $2,571, according to flight comparison website Kayak.com.au. For perspective, air fares are now 63 per cent above pre-pandemic flights.

The Guardian reports that the hefty 2023 increase shouldn’t come as a surprise — with most carriers hoping to financially recover from COVID-19 related losses while mitigating high fuel costs. And with our lust for travel at an all-time high, they’re able to confidently set such air fares.

“Sadly what has happened since Covid is that travel has gone from being something very democratic that just about anyone earning even a modest salary could afford to being a plaything of the elite or for people paying huge amounts of money just to see loved ones,” David Beirman, an adjunct fellow at the University of Technology Sydney, told The Guardian.

He continued: “Maybe by 2024 or 2025 people will be a bit more choosy, less eager to travel, and prices will come down but at the moment it’s very much a sellers market and airlines are, rightfully or wrongfully, taking advantage of that.”

As for accomodation, hotels in Europe have become that much more expensive this year as well due to soaring energy prices. Between May 2019 and May 2022, the average hotel room rate rose 23 per cent in Italy, 21 per cent in Ireland, 17 per cent in Spain and 12 per cent in the UK, reports Traveller. And it’s expected to increase even more this summer. Australian travel industry experts anticipate a 25 per cent increase in hotel prices in the top summer destinations of Greece and Croatia in 2023 with tour operators planning trips around Turkey facing between 20 percent to nearly 50 per cent increase in room rates, in euros.

Related: Five communication tips for your next excursion to Paris

How to have an affordable European holiday in 2023

If you’ve got the Euro travel bug but are on a budget, don’t worry you can still have your “revenge holiday” but with a few considerations. Firstly, be mindful of your arrival destination as while Lisbon may average a costly return ticket of $2,963 during peak summer — Frankfurt is a more affordable. According to the Kayak booking data, the German city is the cheapest European city to fly into from Australia with an average return fare of $2,371 during the June to September period.

More generally, travellers on a budget should consider visiting lesser-known cities and countries than some of the notoriously expensive tourist hotspots. It’s advised they also book a solid itinerary prior to departure, rather than the classic Aussie mentality of ‘winging it’ upon arrival. Time Out recommends holidaymakers check out Kraków, Poland; Riga, Latvia; Český Krumlov, Czech Republic; Bucharest, Romania; Belgrade, Serbia; Kaunas, Lithuania; Zagreb, Croatia; Argos, Greece; Marsalforn, Malta; and Sofia, Bulgaria as some of the most interesting, delicious and affordable locations on the Continent this year.

But if your heart (and tummy) desire Eiffel Tower views or pasta alla carbonara, perhaps consider forfeiting a Euro summer altogether for the off-peak ’shoulder season.’ The more affordable period sits on the cusp of peak season, either before summer during April or May — or after it in September or early October. Prices tend to rise during school breaks and summer holidays. As travel blogger Jen of The Soloist wrote to an Instagram post: “One of the absolute BEST times to travel is during shoulder season anyways!!”

She continued: “‘Shoulder season’ is an off-peak period when a destination has less crowds, lower prices, and milder weather,” she continued. “It’s a great way to get a more authentic experience, while spending less for the same fabulous hotel rooms!”

You can also expect airfare prices to lower during shoulder season, with the biggest drops at some of the most popular destinations. This could mean a potential upgrade from your usual flight cabin, such as Emirates’ new Premium Economy.

Related: The only way to see the Amalfi Coast next summer

Best premium economy seats

If you’re dreaming of business class but still need to save on spending money, Emirates may be your happy travel medium. Long known as one of the world’s best carriers, Emirates has recently launched its luxurious Premium Economy seating following an eight-year multi-million-dollar refurbishment. On April 19, the airline introduced its daily Airbus A380 Premium Economy services from Melbourne to Dubai, making it the the fifth city on the Emirates’ network to offer the upgraded economy seating options. This follows successful Sydney’s debut last December.

Now, if you’re wondering whether there’s much of a difference between Economy and Premium Economy, there is. Emirates is comparing the new offering to business class cabins of the late ’80s and early ’90s, with its 56 Premium Economy plush leather seats unusually sitting at the front of the plane. It’s laid out in an ergonomic and spacious 2-4-2 configuration, meaning couples won’t have that awkward third wheel (it happens) — and families can comfortably stretch out in the aisle row. There’s almost a metre of legroom, in-seat charging points, a generous 43-centimetre entertainment screen, and a walnut wood-finished side cocktail table; much like the sophisticated business class aesthetic.

As for on-flight dining, let’s just say you won’t want to pre-purchase anything to take on board. Passengers are treated to champagne on arrival (only the best way to start a trip, right?), and nthoughtfully-curated meals using seasonal ingredients served on Royal Doulton china tableware with stainless-steel cutlery. There’s also a dedicated Premium Economy crew with three bathrooms for the 56-seat cabin, so you won’t have to line up during the evening.

Premium economy passengers will also get priority boarding, plus a generous 35 kilograms of checked luggage. Since tickets went on sale on June 1, 2022, Emirates says there’s been “significant demand” for the new cabin, exceeding expectations and forecast. In terms of Premium Economy pricing, you’re looking at around $2,700 each way from London via Dubai, with “shoulder-season” tickets around $2000 each way. It’s definitely a taste of flying luxury at a fraction of the business cost.

“This is an exciting period for Emirates in Australia, with Melbourne and Sydney sitting at the forefront of Emirates biggest investment in cabin redesign to date,” Barry Brown, Divisional Vice President Australasia at Emirates, said.

“We have a strong commitment to Australia, as one of our most important markets on our global network. Alongside continued increase of operations as we make a strong rebound, we are committed to offering Australians more choice in how they travel, and look forward to offering travellers between Melbourne an exceptional new experience.”

Bookings can be made on emirates.com, the Emirates App, or via both online and offline travel agents.

Related: Here’s how you can fight jet lag naturally

What is the ETIAS visa?

Australians travelling to France, Denmark or even Croatia (one of the latest countries to join the Schengen Area) will soon need to apply for a visa waiver program. Coming into effect next year, the European Travel Information and Authorisation System or ETIAS will require Australia and more than 63 other non-European Union countries to apply online for pre-screening. For clarity, the ETIAs is not a visa — but intended to waive the requirement for it. The new mandatory pre-travel authorisation is a largely automated IT system created to identify any security risks, much like the eligibility of travellers heading into the US. 

Travellers can access the ETIAS application online, which is said to take around 10 minutes to fill out. It’ll ask applicants to fill out standard contact details, including full name, address, passport information, as well as the first EU country they intend to visit. There will also be questions about criminal history, drug use, human trafficking and previous European travels. The link will be made available next year, with the application to cost $11 for each Australian applicant aged between 18 and 70. The ETIAs is permissible up to 90 days, with longer travel in the Schengen Area requiring Schengen Visa.

Related: The Dorchester London gets a royally good makeover ahead of the coronation

I FIRST experienced Fiji a child, travelling alongside my family on a holiday in the early 2000s. Through my nine-year-old eyes, I saw it as a far-off oasis, replete with sun, sand and coconuts aplenty, brimming with exciting marine life and adrenaline-inducing activities galore. But when I visited it again more recently, this time with my partner, I saw it through a renewed lens. The Fiji I rediscovered is one that is so close — a less-than-four-hour flight from Sydney — that it’s an almost-local getaway, offering all the beautiful beaches and fun I remember from my childhood alongside an abundance of vibrant cultural experiences, romantic opportunities and calming sceneries.

It’s the secluded luxury of Bora Bora or the Maldives without the hefty price tag; it’s the rugged beauty of Hawaii without the lengthy flight; it’s the adventure and fun of Bali without the raucousness. The locals are kind-hearted and friendly, always ready to greet you with a bula! and engage in genuine conversation; and the tropical weather means that it’s the perfect place to slow down and press pause on the daily grind.

In short, it’s the ideal destination that should immediately jump to the top of your travel wish list, especially if you’re on the hunt for a special location for a romantic getaway. And if you’re looking for the best resorts in Fiji for couples, look no further: Whether you’re honeymooning, travelling with kids or just seeking some quality time together in the sun, below, discover the romantic Fijian getaways that are sure to leave you relaxed, rejuvenated and more in love than ever.

Related: Where to find tranquility in Phuket

Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay

Viti Levu

Travel just 40 minutes from the airport down the western coast of Fiji’s largest island, Viti Levu, and you’ll find yourself in a beautiful resort that brings Fiji’s signature friendly hospitality to a setting reminiscent of the likes of Tahiti or Bora Bora. The Marriott at Momi Bay is a secluded five-star getaway that allows you to swim in a pristine lagoon or your choice of three pools, dine at any of the six cafes, bistros, and restaurants, and immerse yourself in cultural activities and experiences.

The resort offers chic apartment-style accommodation overlooking the lagoon, or for a truly romantic experience you can opt for a lagoon-front, ocean-front or over-water bure — a traditional type of Fijian cabin that offers spacious, breezy living with high vaulted ceilings and private outdoor decks. You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to food, but for personal recommendations: The Goji Bar offers a breakfast buffet that surpasses any you’ve experienced before, and for lunch or dinner I can’t speak highly enough of Fish Bar. Its stunning views of Momi Bay and proximity to the infinity pool promises the best sunset experience the resort has to offer — relaxing there at golden hour, cocktail in hand, is one of the most memorable moments of my stay.

When it comes to experiences, there’s a full schedule of activities on offer each day — from Pilates and weaving to Fijian language classes and even crab racing. The on-site, award-winning Quan Spa is the perfect place to relax (I highly recommend the soothing hot stone massage) with couple’s massages on offer too. If you’d like something a little more active, watersports on offer including paddleboarding, jetskiing, kayaking, parasailing, and boat cruises.

Find out more (including all-inclusive options) and book your stay here.

Related: The ultimate itinerary for a week-long Thailand holiday

Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island

Mamanuca Islands

Before visiting Sheraton Tokoriki, I had only experienced Fiji on its largest island, Viti Levu — and I had incorrectly assumed I had therefore experienced all the country has to offer. But visiting one of Fiji’s smaller islands is a totally unique experience, and one I’d highly recommend to anyone else who might think that seeing just one part of the 330 islands that make up the nation is enough. Tokoriki is an 88-hectare island in the Mamanucas, a volcanic archipelago to the west of Nadi. To get there, you can arrange a 15-minute seaplane or helicopter trip, or a scenic one-hour cruise from Port Denarau (20 minutes from the airport). There are just two separate resorts on the small island, so it feels incredibly exclusive and you feel completely whisked away from reality — the only downside is that no amount of time there will feel like enough.

For accommodation, you can choose from island or ocean views — if you’re celebrating a special occasion, I can confirm that the adults-only oceanfront guest rooms that come complete with their own private plunge pools are the ultimate romantic luxury. The staff couldn’t be friendlier, and have plenty of local knowledge to share — many hail from the neighbouring islands of Tavua and Yanuya, and are generous in sharing their stories and culture with visitors. You can also enhance your stay with cultural experiences from a Fijian buffet cooked in a lovo (an underground oven), to an unmissable kava ceremony (a welcoming experience in which you share a bowl of crushed kava root mixed with water, which creates a unique drink with a subtly relaxing effect). Dining options are plentiful, from the day-to-night Waitui House to the Indian casual-fine-dining establishment Curcuma.

Relax by the pool (complete with swim-up bar) or add a little excitement to your stay with the many activities on offer, including jetskiing, sailing, fishing, mini golf and local village trips. The Monuriki snorkelling trip is definitely worthwhile — you’ll sail out on a small boat to dive along the reefs of Tavua, Yanuya and Monuriki (the latter of which is where Castaway and Survivor were filmed), which are brimming with colourful coral and marine life. At sunset, be sure to make the walk up to the helipad, where you’re treated to the best views of the island. You can even book a private picnic there, complete with champagne and cheeseboard, scattered flowers (the perfect setting for a proposal, in case you were wondering).

Find out more (including all-inclusive options) and book your stay here.

Related: Totally unwind at these luxury health and wellness retreats in Australia

Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort

Denarau Island

New couples and honeymooners aren’t the only ones who may want to enjoy a romantic getaway — so if you’re looking somewhere that offers family-friendly convenience alongside romantic indulgence, Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort is the perfect location. It’s the easiest resort to get to on this list, and the shortest trip from Nadi Airport — just a 20-minute drive — so you can skip straight to relaxation, even with the kids in tow. Despite being located alongside a handful of other resorts on the buzzy Denarau Island, it still successfully offers an intimate, romantic and relaxing experience for visitors so you can feel like you’re on the sequestered getaway of your dreams.

The newly renovated accommodations include ocean or garden-view rooms with private balconies or patios, or if you want a little extra space, opt for a suite. If you do plan on visiting with your children, but still want to have a little private time with your partner, the free on-site kid’s club means they won’t miss you for a moment — they’ll be too busy enjoying themselves in the playground or partaking in activities from face painting and basket making to fish feeding and Fijian song and dance lessons.

Meanwhile there’s plenty for you and your partner to enjoy: Treat yourself to a round of golf at the nearby Denarau Golf & Racquet Club, take a dip in one of the multiple pools (there’s adults-only ones available), or get a little adventurous with snorkelling, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, scuba diving, jet ski safaris and many more activities on offer. There are multiple restaurants on-site, or you can stay in bed and enjoy 24-hour room service — is there anything more indulgent?

Find out more (including all-inclusive options) and book your stay here.

Related: A luxury guide to Port Douglas

Disclaimer: This article is not sponsored, however the writer travelled to the resorts courtesy of Marriott International and Fiji Airways.

RESORTS, while luxurious, aren’t known first and foremost for their food offerings — but in the lush island nation of Fiji, renowned Australian chef Matt Moran has teamed up with Marriott Hotels & Resorts to prove otherwise.

Moran already has 11 dining venues to his name across New South Wales and Queensland — among them, the iconic Aria, Chiswick, Opera Bar and North Bondi Fish. Now, this new partnership has seen him expand into international waters, taking over the kitchens at two of Marriott’s Fijian destinations in March and adding an exciting new dish to the menu for foodies to enjoy. The lucky kitchens are at Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort and Marriott Momi Bay, a pair of tropical resorts where luxe dining experiences are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to holiday indulgence.

To celebrate the takeover, BAZAAR Australia headed to Fiji with Moran, three of his chefs from Aria and Opera Bar, and a group of Australian media for two pop-up dinner events on March 21 and 22 at the Sheraton’s Tatavu Grill & Bar and Momi Bay’s Fish Bar. For the occasions, we were treated to a three-course meal cooked by Moran himself and his team, featuring the exclusive new menu item.

On the opening night of the takeover, a balmy evening at Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort’s Tatavu, Moran described the enjoyable process of bringing his culinary language to Fijian flavours — a journey he considers when he creates any menu or dish in a new locale.

“Every venue has a narrative,” he told dinner guests — a group of international and local media dining alongside resort visitors. “I haven’t been to Fiji for a long time, and I really wanted to get out a little bit and see what else is around.”

Related: Where to find tranquility in Phuket

Every VENUE has a NARRATIVE

The three-course menu we were offered saw fine dining meet local flavours in signature Moran style: Yellow-fin tuna caught by local spear-fishers perched atop pickled cucumber; roasted lamb loin served with scene-stealing condiments of zingy parsley-and-spinach mustard and umami-packed mushroom “ketchup”; an artfully deconstructed coconut panna cotta ingeniously crafted from various forms of the tropical staple. Earlier in the day we were treated to a visit to the nearby Denarau Island Farm, where we witnessed the resort’s efforts for sustainable, organic, locally-nurtured produce — a perfect match for Moran’s paddock-to-plate dining concept. Rows of endless mint, basil, Japanese eggplant, pawpaw, lemongrass, and plenty more vegetables, fruits and herbs are being grown in abundance by a small group of local farmers across five hectares of land to serve the neighbouring resorts. And this fresh produce was on display throughout the menu: Purple-and-green dark opal basil offering an earthy, spicy freshness; edible flowers scattered across cocktails, salads and desserts for visual intrigue.

“Fiji is such a popular destination among foodies, and it’s easy to see why,” Moran said following the launches. “With an abundance of crisp vegetables, tropical fruits, and the freshest line caught seafood it’s hard not to create spectacular dishes. It was great to experience Fiji, tour the resorts’ own gardens and deliver something extraordinary to their guests.”

For those who missed out on the launch event, worry not: Moran has left behind a memento of his stay so that you can still experience a taste of the exclusive menu when visiting Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort or Marriott Momi Bay. A new dish debuted during the events will remain on the menu for six months: A beautiful snapper ceviche, inspired by the national Fijian dish of Kokoda, in which freshly-caught fish is modestly marinated in miti, a tangy combination of lime juice, coconut milk, and chilli. The specialty dish, which will use Fiji’s freshly caught seafood will be delivered by each restaurants’ in-house Chefs until August 31, 2023. Think of it as a new iteration of Moran’s paddock to plate approach — reef to restaurant, perhaps.

Specifically, you’ll be able to find the dish at Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach’s Tatavu, where it combines with the location — an open-air venue with waterfront views championing traditional Fijian feet-in-the-sand dining — to create an unpretentious upscale dining experience. And if you’re after an even more luxe affair, head to Momi Bay’s Fish Bar, where the venue’s breathtaking evening views, perched on a hill beside the resort’s Sunset Infinity Pool, will leave you in awe.

FIJI is such a popular destination among FOODIES, and it’s EASY to see why

Neeraj Chadha, Marriott’s Multi Property Vice President Pacific Islands, expressed his delight and gratitude to Moran for bringing his talent and expertise to Fiji.

“We are thrilled that Matt has agreed to have the snapper ceviche on the menu at both Tatavu and Fish Bar Momi Bay for the next six months. Beyond this menu addition and in keeping with Marriott’s ongoing commitment to upskilling our teams and providing every opportunity possible, our teams are so excited to learn from a chef, the calibre of Matt Moran,” he said. “Matt created a memorable experience that aligned perfectly with our ethos and core values here at Marriott. We aim to deliver world-class hospitality and the dinner events did just that.”

But Moran’s new menu item is not the only drawcard for Marriott’s Fiji resorts.

The newly renovated Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort is just 20 minutes from Nadi Airport, offering family-friendly fun with a wide selection of leisure facilities, water sports, a kids club, and spacious rooms overlooking the ocean and gardens, with private balconies or patios. The award-winning Denarau Golf & Racquet Club is mere minutes away for those seeking a hole in one, and visits to Denarau Farm are available, where you can experience family-style meals cooked in the traditional Fijian lovo (underground oven) method.

For additional dining options to Tatavu, 28g is your on-site all-day cafe, restaurant and lobby bar offering light sweet and savoury treats alongside your requisite caffeine fix. Island 619 will fulfil your breakfast cravings with quite possibly the most extensive buffet available: There are sections for baked goods; cereals, porridges, granolas and fruits; hot breakfasts; omelette stations; deli goods; salads; self-serve or barista-made coffee; fresh juices; curries; fresh-cooked pizza breads and more. At Wet Edge, enjoy the new Asian menu: wontons, dumplings, noodles and stir fries to satisfy your lunch and dinner needs.

Related: In search of slow Bali

Further south along the western coast Viti Levu (Fiji’s largest island), refined luxury brings a taste of the Maldives to a far more accessible location at Marriott Momi Bay. Accommodations include spacious apartments with balconies overlooking the serene lagoon, or traditional thatched roof bure that back onto the beach, the lagoon, or are suspended over the water for a truly immersive and romantic tropical experience.

Aside from the beautifully-located Fish Bar, you can dine buffet or à la carte at the in-and-outdoor Goji Bar from morning ’til night; experience down-to-earth dining with Fiji-style barbecue and comfort food at Voi Voi; unwind at the Mediterranean-style Lagoon House & Bar; or enjoy light bites and crafted cocktails at the relaxed Lagoon Lounge.

Full-day schedules offer every activity from morning Pilates to Fijian language lessons. There are two pools: The family-friendly lagoon pool with its swim-up bar; or the Sunset Infinity Pool (my personal preference, because you just can’t beat that view). Watersports are also available: snorkelling, jet skis, and paddle boarding, to name a few. The resort’s Quan Spa recently was awarded best spa among the Marriott group’s Asia-Pacific region, if you’re after a bit of extra rest and relaxation.

So for those who find themselves steering away from resorts, challenge your expectations, and be treated with divine food experiences courtesy of Marriott and Moran — alongside accommodations and experiences that will leave you wishing you could stay on Fiji time forever.

Related: How to travel again

Matt Moran’s new menu inclusion will be available at Tatavu and Fish Bar until August 2023. For further information and to book your stay visit Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort here, or at Marriott Momi Bay here.

Disclaimer: This article is not sponsored, however the writer travelled courtesy of Marriott International and Fiji Airways.

WHILE THERE ARE CERTAINLY perks to summer festivities here in Australia, there is something about the charm of a white Christmas that never fails to tug at the heartstrings. Accordingly, that’s why some of us pop across the pond (well, the world) to Britain and Europe to spend the season of celebration exploring in the snow.

And if you are fully looking to indulge in the Christmas spirit, what better way to top off your trip than with a stay at an iconic residence from a festive film?

Well, if that’s your brief then you’re in luck, for you can now lease the property that the charming cottage from The Holiday was modelled after.

Prior to filming, The Holiday‘s producers took a trip to Honeysuckle Cottage in Holmbury St Mary, Surrey, and immediately chose it as a key filming location. However, the residence was a touch too far from London where the cast and crew were, so they recreated the home for the film, naming it Rosehill Cottage.

In 2019, Jon and Cressida Bromley purchased the real property, only finding out that it was the one from the classic Christmas movie when fans of the film began showing up outside to have a look. Now, the Bromleys have opened it up for the world to see, listing it on Airbnb.

If you fancy yourself a cosy Christmas stay, you can book Honeysuckle cottage here (though we can’t promise it comes with Jude Law included) or take a quick peek inside below.

WHEN YOU THINK of Phuket, you probably think of Patong Beach, a backpacker party mecca filled with loud bars and counterfeit sneaker stores. It’s easy to dismiss Thailand’s most popular island for this reason when planning a luxury holiday — a great place to dance until 4am, not so great for recharging.

What you might not know is that Phuket is Thailand’s largest island, connecting via highway to the Phang Nga province in the north. One side is heavily developed, the other is still fairly rugged — dotted with luxury resorts immersed in wilderness. Even down its developed coast, you’ll discover places to stay that have eschewed the bright lights energy of Phuket’s well-known beaches and created oases from the thumping beats.

What this means is that there are plenty of ways to do Phuket without the overwhelm. From resorts in Phang Nga that might be just a short drive away from tourist attractions, but feel like another world, to villas so private you feel like a castaway, this is the Phuket you didn’t know about.

Related: The ultimate itinerary for a week-long Thailand holiday

Anantara Mai Khao

With its cluster of luxury villas, Anantara Mai Khao is a world within itself. Built around Mai Khao beach in Phuket’s north, all villas have their own plunge pool – so if you really want alone time, you can have it 24/7. With its winding plank pathways and tropical flora at every turn, it’s impossible not to fall into a deep, peaceful relaxation even when strolling to dinner. 

Speaking of, there are three fine dining restaurants on the premises — our favourite being Sea.Fire.Salt, situated right on the beach with a focus on Himalayan salt-brick cooking techniques. Expect sizzling local fish presented on a block of hot salt, paired with creamy mash and crisp salad. Alternatively, head up a winding staircase that twists around an ancient banyan tree to Tree House for Japanese omakase among the leaves.

Book your stay here.

Anantara Layan

If you’re after a sexier vibe for your holiday, Anantara Layan is where you’ll find it. Built into the hillside next to the dense Sirinat National Park, Layan is only 40 minutes away from Patong, so you can flit between solitude and entertainment as often as you like.

Layan is, in our opinion, for lovers. Pulsing chill-out beats are the undercurrent at its airy rooftop bar Beach House, where you can watch the sky change from orange to pink amid fire pits as you sink into pillowy lounges with a cocktail in hand (the mojitos are not to be missed). Dinner is served at Age, a steakhouse jutting out over hilly cliffs where you can watch the lights dance on the ocean as you peruse the extensive menu that offers practically every cut of meat you could want, and then some. Everything is dimly lit and dedicated to romance — you’ll leave more in love than ever.

Book your stay here.

Amanpuri

The first resort from the ultra-exclusive Aman group, Amanpuri is balanced on its own private peninsula, overlooking the brilliant cerulean Andaman Sea. Made up of a small cluster of villas and pavilions, this is seclusion at its most elite – with such a limited number of guests, solitude is king at Amanpuri. 

The private sandy beach and coconut palm-framed lagoon are where you’ll while away most of your days, hopping from one to the other at leisure. As the sun dips below the horizon, head to the famous Sunset Terrace for its incredible views over the ocean.

Book your stay here.

Como Point Yamu

The east side of Phuket is less developed, and while its seclusion isn’t for everyone (getting across to popular spots like Patong Beach and Kata Noi Beach isn’t the easiest), if you want to feel like the only person among the trees, it’s where to be. Como Point Yamu sits overlooking Phang Nga Bay (made famous for its inclusion in the Bond film The Man With The Golden Gun) with a cliffside infinity pool and architecture inspired by the rolling waves. 

Interiors are by renowned Italian designer Paola Navone, with nods to local aesthetics that stay true to the heritage of the area. The result? A tranquil, ocean-soaked experience that’s both modern and retains a local feel.

Book your stay here.

The Naka Island

The beauty of Phuket is there are plentiful islands just a short boat ride away that offer a more low-key holiday experience for those looking to escape the crowds. The Naka Island is a luxury resort on one of these islands. Take a speedboat from the mainland and you’re there in minutes. You could easily spend your entire vacation at The Naka Island, sipping cocktails at one of the many bars and restaurants on site (including the waterfront Z Bar, a must for golden hour). There are also daily activities for fitness buffs, and a premier wellness spa to bliss out in.

Book your stay here.

Katathani Resort

Want to be close to the nightlife of Patong without staying amongst it? Katathani is a great choice. Situated just south on Kata Noi Beach, it’s a short ride to shopping, bars and clubs while still offering an oasis from the high-energy pace when you need it. 

The sprawling resort isn’t for those looking for total solitude, but it is a great choice for anyone who still loves a long night on the dance floor (but doesn’t have the energy for the morning-after disco tunes by the pool).

Book your stay here.

Six Senses Yao Noi

Phang Nga Bay is pretty spectacular, and staying in its vicinity will never be a regret. Six Senses Yao Noi is around as close as you can get. A 45 minute boat ride from Phuket, it may technically not be on the island but it’s close enough to allow you the best of both worlds. 

A focus on sustainability and honouring the natural surroundings is paramount, and you’ll spot hornbills and other wildlife during your stay. If you can, book a villa – with thatched roofs and private plunge pools, they’re a true tropical oasis experience.

Book your stay here.

Related: Here’s how you can fight jet lag naturally

IN JOHN Steinbeck’s widely-read dissertation of Positano for the Harper’s Bazaar May 1953 issue, the American writer — who was then at the height of his fame — famously documented his experiences of the majestical coastline in ways that hadn’t been done before; Steinbeck pulled the curtain back on what was then Italy’s best-kept secret.

“‘Positano bites deep,’ wrote Steinbeck for BAZAAR. ‘It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.’

While he eloquently penned an ode to the romance of Positano, he failed to mention the other neighbouring towns which unequivocally rival the Amalfi Coast’s most popular destination.

For those that don’t know, the Amalfi Coast is a stretch of over 56 kilometres of regional bliss, dotted with 500-foot-tall cliffs, over 100 beaches and 13 uniquely different seaside towns which all differ in charm, character and offerings.

The Amalfi Coast really is heaven on earth, make no mistake about it. It’s here that clear skies and crystal waters intertwine; where the scent of lemon groves leave a fragrant trail; where one can languish in summer afternoons that roll effortlessly into aperitivo hour. Sure, it can be touristy, but don’t let its peak summer season deter you. Thousands will continue to flock here to holiday in style each and every year, but if you know where to go, what to do and what to see, dare we say you might even feel like the coast is your own.

Here is a curated guide on the must-do’s when visiting the region of Campania where the great Costiera Amalfitana awaits.

Related: How to travel again

Where to stay in the Amalfi Coast

Ravello: Caruso, A Belmond Hotel

Ravello, situated high on the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast that look out to the Gulf of Salerno, is an idyllic town to base oneself in. If arriving from Napoli, it’s one of the most accessible towns to reach. And really, there is only one hotel you should consider for endless days of ‘dolce far niente’: Caruso, A Belmond Hotel.

Arguably one of the most luxurious hotels on the coast, this former 11th-century palace exhibits every bit of charm and character that you’d imagine it to have. On any given day, take a stroll through the century-old gardens as you make your way across the sprawling property where three separate dining options reside – the Michelin-star Ristorante Belvedere, Ristorante Caruso and the Pool Grill. There’s a dedicated cocktail bar, too – Bar Caruso, where the head barman Tommaso Mansi will whip you up the famed Gimlet Caruso. For those seeking solace in wellness, there’s also a dedicated wellness and fitness centre. Of course, it would be remiss of us not to mention the renowned Caruso infinity pool – an architectural masterpiece and one of the most photographed locations on the property. It’s here that you’ll find yourself relaxing at the highest point above the town of Ravello, where it is as if you were swimming amongst the clouds.

The suites at Caruso are charming and nostalgic, too; they offer guests a tiny bit of history of the famed hotel that you can take with you on your travels. Above all, the service at Belmond Hotel Caruso is exceptional; not just in the sense that Italian hospitality is generally extraordinary, but the staff at Caruso go that extra mile to ensure all guests truly enjoy their stay.

Book your stay here.

Amalfi: Borgo Santandrea

If you’re venturing further along the coastline, you’ll hit the splendid town of Amalfi. Here, you can’t miss the first new hotel on the coast in 15 years, Borgo Santandrea. Built high up on a cliffside, the hotel’s overwhelming presence is felt as soon as you enter the little town of Amalfi.

No detail has been missed here at Borgo Santandrea; it has been immaculately re-designed from its 1960’s origins. Led by Italian architect Rino Gambardella, the new hotel blends a tasteful mix of artisanal Mediterranean style with elegant mid-century design.

As you walk into one of the 29 suites available, you will be greeted by an unspoiled view of the Amalfi Coast, including the enchanting, centuries-old fishing village of Conca dei Marini. You’ll also find works by local artisans and bespoke furniture by Gio Ponti, handmade tiles and eclectic antiques, all coming together effortlessly to create a truly spectacular setting that encapsulates the essence of a ‘home away from home’.

The hotel, which officially opened in April of this year after a meticulous four-year renovation, is owned by the Orlacchio and De Siano families, who bring generations of hospitality experience to the newest property on the Amalfi Coast.

Book your stay here.

Where to dine in the Amalfi Coast

Naturally, food is a big part of Italian culture. And that’s no exception on the Amalfi Coast. Sure, you might fall prey to the abundance of touristy haunts that will serve your average pizza and pasta dishes. And they might be great! But for truly delicious coastal delicacies that offer the best of Campania cuisine, there are a few destinations to everyone should consider when travelling to the Amalfi Coast…

Rossellinis at Palazzo Avino

Palazzo Avino, located at the top of Ravello’s old town, is home to one of the most exceptional dining experiences on the Amalfi Coast: Rossellini’s. Opened solely for dinner, this elegant and sophisticated Michelin-star restaurant not only offers panoramic sea views from each table setting but serves delectable Italian cuisine to match, with a specific focus on local produce and ingredients from the Campania region.

Mimì Ristorante Pizzeria

Another Ravello staple – but one that’s somewhat of a hidden ‘local’s’ secret – Mimi dishes up the best Neapolitan pizza that you’re likely to find outside of Naples itself. With only a few tables available each night, get in early to secure your spot amongst the lemon trees. The Pizza Di Avola is exceptionally tasty, as are the homemade pasta staples that rotate on the menu daily. Finish with some delicious homemade limoncello.

Aldo’s at Le Sirenuse

Located at the famed Le Sirenuse hotel in Positano, Aldo’s is a dedicated seafood grill and cocktail bar that’s an ideal location for an evening out with friends. Here at Aldo’s, you’ll find fresh-off-the-boat seafood, Neapolitan classics and perhaps the best tiramisù in Positano. It’s simple yet beautiful Italian food without the fuss.

Lo Scoglio

Located in Nerano in the commune of Massa Lubrense, this third-generation seaside restaurant offers some of the best examples of local cuisine. All of the produce is either plucked straight from the sea, or grown on the family property nearby. Of course, the Pasta Nerano is a staple of the town and region, and a must-try when visiting Lo Scoglio. 

Da Adolfo

One of the most famous restaurants on the Amalfi Coast is Da Adolfo, but it’s perhaps the hardest to get to. To secure your table, bookings are a must, but even so, you’re still likely to wait on arrival (don’t worry, the owners will offer free cups of wine). And to get there, you’ll need a boat — either your own or take the free shuttle service provided by Da Adolfo. Here on the small private beach of Positano, Da Adolfo will dish out its most famous menu items: zuppa di cozze (Mussel soup), pesce fresco alla griglia (fresh grilled fish), pollo alla Adolfo (Adolfo’s chicken), plus more.

Where to swim in the Amalfi Coast

Lido Degli Artisti – Amalfi

Lido Degli Artisti is a whimsical hideout on the Amalfi coast. Unless you’re a guest of the Belmond Hotel Caruso — which offer guests their own private beach cabana and umbrella — only locals will revel in its seclusion. What to expect at Lido Degli Artisti? Carefree afternoons. Fresh food. Slow lunches. Endless spritz. It’s here that you’ll also find waiters and lifeguards — pirate-like characters during the day, maybe Versace models at night — buoyed by their love for service and the water.

One Fire Beach – Praiano

Perhaps the most iconic and famous beach club on the Amalfi Coast, you can spot the classic orange umbrellas of One Fire Beach Club a mile away. It’s here at One Fire Beach that people come to revel in the atmosphere rather than sunbathe in peace and quiet; it’s loud, it’s crazy and it’s a little mad. Be sure to stick around for ‘Melon Time’; a weird but fun experience where, at 4:30pm each afternoon, waiters of the beach club will dance around a watermelon before cutting into said watermelon for all guests to enjoy.

I HAVE A CONFESSION to make, one which would have made me very unpopular two years ago and which may still scratch you raw wound now: when the first COVID lockdown was announced in March 2022, my first feeling was one of relief. I had spent the previous five years in a perpetual state of motion, and — with the blissful levity of ignorance about the reality of a global pandemic — I found the idea of a short period of forced stillness a kind of quiet miracle.

As a magazine editor, I was granted the unique privilege of travelling for work — a role that took me to the Ritz in Paris, the Sahara Desert and hidden boltholes in the side alleys of Shanghai. These trips were remarkable but often so fast paced that I barely had time to register where I was. I once flew from Sydney to Los Angeles for only 36 hours (the jetlag was so disorienting it took almost a fortnight to recover properly), and once foolishly ignored my surgeon’s advice not to fly to London after intensive sinus surgery. I had to do bloody sinus rinses in the aeroplane bathroom every few hours during the day-long flight.

Our culture has a justified reverence for the benefits of travel. For European aristocracy, a grand tour through the continent was seen as a necessary rite of passage for those who hoped to be taken seriously by high society. Travel gives you a sense of culture, of history, of food, of wine and fashion and architecture and art. It teaches you how to interact with people you don’t share a language with, helps you ascertain whether or not you’re really in love with someone, and tests (and often deepens) the bonds of friendship. Travel should, perhaps most importantly, humble you — Gustave Flaubert wrote that travel makes you modest: “You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” For all these reasons, many of us spent the pandemic dreaming about where we would travel once we were able to again. Where would we go? How would we feel? Who would we be?

I moved to London a few years ago and was able to begin travelling again sooner than my family and friends in Australia, a stroke of luck that I milked with fervour. In the past 12 months, I’ve pottered around Italy and France, Greece and Portugal, Croatia and Monaco, and snuck in a couple of trips back to Australia in between. Along the way, I have attempted to garner some insights about how to travel well, most of which were learnt through travelling badly. I will do my best to impart the little wisdom I have to offer here.

JOAN DIDION’S packing LIST included two leotards, a packet of CIGARETTES, a bottle of BOURBON and a MOHAIR throw

My first insight pertains to packing. In her 1979 essay collection, The White Album, Joan Didion revealed a meticulous and characteristically chic packing list that she followed religiously during several decades of work trips. Displaying her signature blend of style and pared-back pragmatism, it included two leotards, a packet of cigarettes, a bottle of bourbon and a mohair throw. I can’t pretend to have Didion’s consistency, but I have adopted her habit and now write detailed lists ahead of every trip. In the past, I have packed earnestly, occasionally recklessly. Lowlights include the time I packed two pairs of high heels to attend a three-day music festival, and at Milan Fashion Week when I used 35 kilograms of luggage but neglected to pack a single pair of underwear.

I now try to travel with hand luggage wherever possible, and have whittled my “essentials” down to: two pairs of vintage 501 Levi’s, a couple of white T-shirts from Petit Bateau, a silk Christopher Esber dress, a pair of Celine sunglasses and, depending on the weather, a pair of leather sandals and a Matteau swimsuit, or a vintage oversized knit jumper I picked up on Golborne Road in London for £30. Any surplus space is devoted to books. This is, granted, an unnecessary degree of asceticism, but my experience is that I have almost never thought about something I didn’t pack.

As far as staking out culinary spots goes, I’ve become increasingly sceptical about places that look good on Instagram. The worst meal I ate in Lisbon, for example, was at a highly ’grammed haunt that I spent two hours lining up for because of a rave New York Times review. Coincidentally, the best meal I had was a bifana sandwich with a cold beer from a nondescript corner shop, which I later found out was a favourite of Anthony Bourdain’s. I now rely solely on the advice of people I know (and try to book ahead wherever possible) and, increasingly, on a new travel app called amiGO, which offers curated travel guides from tastemakers such as Diana Bartlett, Beverly Nguyen and Pia Riverola. A few restaurants worth writing down are Chez Janou and Bistrot Paul Bert in Paris; Rovello 18 and Ristorante Da Giacomo in Milan; St. John Restaurant and Sessions Arts Club in London; and Spilia in Mykonos.

Having taken a protracted period off social media in the past couple of years, dipping in and out intermittently, I can also testify to the benefits of travelling with a film camera. I don’t intend to lecture you on the value of “living in the moment”, as I am as guilty of spoiling quality time by trying to capture the right picture as the next person. But I will say there is a certain old-school magic in capturing spontaneous moments that you won’t be able to access until long after your travels have finished. Having grown up in a house filled with physical photographs of my parents in all their sunkissed ’80s splendour, I became obsessed with the idea of having similar relics for my future children, rather than the overly posed, optimised-for-likes content we now tend to capture. I’ve found that doing so often frees me from the shackles of my phone, which I now feel more comfortable leaving at home or even (quelle horreur!) turning off for hours or even days at a time.

Ultimately, the art of travel boils down to who you decide to do it with. Mark Twain astutely observed that there’s no surer way to find out how you really feel about a person than to travel with them, and having developed a cheesy “seize the day” missive in the aftermath of COVID, I concur that life is too short to spend surrounded by people you don’t like all that much. If the past couple of years have taught me anything — aside from the fact that you should never, ever box dye your hair — it’s that how, where and with whom we choose to spend our time is one of the few things in life we can truly control. Let’s all try to use that power wisely.

This story originally appeared in the October issue of Harper’s BAZAAR Australia/New Zealand. Get your copy here.

SINGAPORE IS OFTEN our gateway to Europe — but it’s so much more than just a stopover at Changi airport. Long known as a hub for business and finance, the vibrant city has been spoiling fashionistas and foodie lovers for years with its world-class dining, sartorial delights and energising festivals.

But amongst all the glitz, glamour and tantalising hawker street food — as presented in the 2018 film Crazy, Rich, Asians — Singapore is also one of the world’s cleanest and greenest cities. Green in reference to yes, its lush botanical spaces but also energy efficiency (there’s even eco-friendly malls). And if you’re after a luxuriously guilt-free and well-connected place to stay, which serves some of the city’s best meals — Hilton Singapore Orchard should be at the top of your list.

One can shop, sip and devour the true Singapore experience at the Hilton’s largest hotel in the Asia pacific. Situated in the heart of the city’s famed Orchard road, the 1,080-room Hilton Singapore Orchard is the ultimate haven for discerning shoppers. Guests not only have direct access to luxury department store the Mandarin Gallery, but can comfortably walk to the Paragon mall and Takashimaya Shopping Centre. For those after something a little more unique, can also check out the sustainably-minded Design Orchard just nearby. The integrated retail and incubation space is recommended as one of the best places in Singapore to source garments, accessories and furniture by local emerging designers.

“There is always exceptionally designed local fashion and homewares, as well as a shaded, secluded green space overlooking Orchard Road with a café that serves coffee that Australians would enjoy,” Cedric Nubul, Hilton Singapore Orchard General Manager, told Harper’s BAZAAR Australia/New Zealand of Design Orchard.

EASY access to the BEST global BRANDS and GOURMET offerings

But effortless travel between suite and store, isn’t the only convenience that guests have the luxury of experiencing at Hilton Singapore Orchard.

Knowing all-too-well how precious time is for travellers, Hilton Singapore Orchard also offers hassle-free booking and check-in services — so you won’t have to queue at reception. Guests on the go are recommended to sign-up as a Hilton Honors member and download the supporting app to fast-track check-in. Don’t worry, both are free. Members can then select their preferred rooms (there’s 12 swish spaces to choose from) and even use their smartphone as a digital key to unlock their door and the hotel’s elevators.

Each room is botanically-inspired and is furnished with sophisticated amenities such as a Nespresso coffee machine and walk-in rain shower. Energy-efficient technologies and bulk bath products also reinforce the Hilton Singapore’s dedication to sustainability. Rooms also look out onto Orchard Road, with guests able to marvel at the Marina Bay Sands on a clear Singapore day. Suffice to say, one can retire peacefully in their room or be inspired by the city’s bright lights to dress up for a dazzling evening. And there’s no better place to make some Singaporean memories, than at the hotel itself. There’s even a MICHELIN-starred restaurant inside.

Hilton Singapore Orchard has an exquisite and diverse dining portfolio — which includes five award-winning dining concepts. Vijayakant Shanmugam, Hilton Singapore Orchard’s Director of Culinary, told BAZAAR there’s truly something for every taste and occasion, with menus “unique to Singapore as well as flavours from around the world.”

There’s the colonial-style Estate, which is buffet dining — but not as you know it. The all-day restaurant prides itself on presentation, quality and experiential dining — with guests able to enjoy a dinner-with-a-show atmosphere. Chefs can be seen whipping up “tantalising dishes à la minute” including some of the most delectable handmade desserts and pastries by Executive Pastry Chef Cindy Khoo. An Estate highlight also includes the Grand Sunday Champagne Brunch, which offers 32 types of cheese, free-flowing champagne, wine and cocktails, and a slew of activities for kids.  

GUESTS are TREATED to a live DISPLAY of culinary SHOWMANSHIP

Those after a civilised afternoon tea, quick bite to eat or fresh Instagram content can also indulge their tummies and tease their ‘Followers’ while indulging at Ginger.Lily. “While the traditional British afternoon tea was the foundation concept, I — together with Executive Pasty Chef Cindy Khoo — curated the menu to have a balanced list of offerings,” Shanmugam said.

Their afternoon tea service, titled The Orchard Trail Experience, takes diners through a four-part journey of the iconic shopping avenue’s colonial and plantation past with: “savoury, sweet, thirst, and take me home.” Expect succulent Lobster Rolls, Smoked Beef Burgers and Spiced Apple Tatin — all washed down with botanical-forward craft cocktails and teas. There’s also various plant-based alternatives for vegans and vegetarian diners.

For some mouthwatering Asian meals, guests have the option of Singapore’s beloved Chatterbox or Japan’s 2-MICHELIN star (and the only 2-star MICHELIN Chinese restaurant in Singapore) Shisen Hanten. The Japanese Szechwan restaurant has a 64-year history with its Hilton Singapore Orchard branch personally helmed by third generation family member, Chef Chen Kentaro. Stunning chandeliers hang from the ceilings, meanwhile a 100-year-old Chinese antique red door is thoughtfully displayed as a frame. Shisen Hanten is certainly the space to hold an intimate wedding or private banquet.

For a no-frills experience — which is heavy on flavour — Chatterbox is the place to eat. Since 1971, Chatterbox has been satiating Singaporeans with its famous chicken-rice (seriously, try it) with Kelvin Tay, General Manager of Shisen Hanten and Chatterbox, calling it a “wonderful, shared dining experience.”

“I am proud of our menu selection, now with a wider range of dishes, catering to both locals and tourists, young and old, it certainly is where we are proud to bring our overseas friends for a delightful dining experience of Singaporean dishes.”

IT was GLORIOUS back in the DAY, and MIGHT I dare SAY, even MORE so NOW!

And last, but certainly not least, is Osteria Mozza by celebrated American chef Nancy Silverton. For those unfamiliar, the Cali-Italian restaurant is a Los Angeles institution with 1-MICHELIN star — lauded for its ethos on high-quality yet simple cooking. Its Singapore outpost delivers the same food love with Silverton’s signature wood-fired pizzas, salads and exceptional handmade pastas on offer as well as a number of new dishes crafted exclusively for Singapore. It’s all housed in an equally homey and rustic environment, ensuring a wholesome dining experience.

“Additionally, the restaurant, like its LA counterpart, is committed to the triple bottom line — people, planet and profit. For instance, the space is encircled by an outdoor herb garden which the restaurant uses to grow some of its own produce,” Cedric Nubul, Hilton Singapore Orchard General Manager, told BAZAAR.

Aside from its restaurants, Hilton Singapore Orchard has an extensive list of luxury facilities to help you work up a sweat, cool right down or facilitate an important business meeting. An elevated outdoor pool sits above street-level Orchard Road, two fully equipped fitness centres are available for 24-hour use and a slew of private meeting rooms can be used for presentations.

If there’s one word to describe Hilton Singapore Orchard — it’s ‘savour,’ as its the experience you’ll want to hold onto long after you’ve left.

For more information and booking enquiries, click here.

I’D NEVER BEFORE imagined butter could be improved on, so when our server places our appetisers on the table, and tells us that the spread accompanying our bread is ‘butter-not-butter’, I’m sceptical. Smoked fish bone is married with coconut oil and soy milk, she explains, placing its clayware dish beside another laden with bark, a pair of cassava coriander seed buns nestled on top. She unburdens her arms, and that of the server beside her, of a total nine dishes in total. These form the first of a four-part, eighteen dish-menu titled ‘The Unknown’ — the latest from popular Locavore in Ubud, that exclusively works with local ingredients.

The ‘butter-not-butter’ is the purest expression of Locavore’s ethos, the white spread beautifully complementing the coriander fragrance coming from the damper-reminiscent bun. What goes on from there is a remarkable discovery; slowly roasted watermelon with a consistency akin to slow-cooked meat, smoked and blackened jicama shaved like truffle, a ganache tart utilising the blackest of bananas. It is unlike anything I could have expected. During the meal, I thumb through the multi-page menu propped on the table. Circled in red is the statement, the invitation: ‘Nothing is unknown if you choose to explore it.’

Over the few days I escape to Bali — my first trip away from Australia since the pandemic broke — I joyfully gather bruises on knees and shins and toes, walking over rocks in search of waterfalls. Here, Tukad Cepung Waterfall, where the content creators take turns photographing themselves under the spotlit, cave-dwelling downpour; there, Tibumana Waterfall, whose fork in the road we miss in a rush to reach its waters in the tropical heat. We correct our route and spend that happy afternoon floating in the greenery-lined lagoon under its mouth, the American tourists pondering nearby if the falls are designed by nature or have seen the intervention of man. 

NOTHING is UNKNOWN if you CHOOSE to EXPLORE IT

My body, from two who were born and grown in the Philippines, welcomes the sustenance of fruits grown in the distantly familiar climate. My fingers are sticky with the sweet and fragrant mangosteen I buy daily from a local woman, her smile and cart overflowing with bags of fruit a constant in these clock-less days. 

I take to spending late afternoons by my accommodation’s infinity edge swimming pool, overlooking lush forests. Bisma Eight is a quiet haven down a long, bumpy road lined with small businesses, from tourist experiences operators to family-run restaurants offering live music at night. A smattering of national and global awards to its name, the resort’s interiors are informed by modern luxury and heritage artisanship; polished concrete and Balinese woodwork adorn all surfaces, from furniture to door frames. 

There, a lone man devours a new book each time I see him, and taking turns sunbaking, a French couple who have brought their little boy to the other side of the world. He finds his thrills jumping into his father’s arms at the deepest end. I spend the last day of my trip learning to surf, awkwardly at first, then triumphantly; capturing that same feeling of emancipation and leaning into it.

On my last evening in Bali, we dine at The Cave, a 22-seat subterranean restaurant with an ever-evolving experimental ten course menu. I savour Tomato Water, a gel-like dish dotted with baby tomato and basil and wasabi oil, while watching the other diners touch the ancient stalactites behind their heads, remembering my Year Five teacher warning attentive students that a stalactite’s life cycle ends once the germs of our hands come into contact with it. The head chef comes over and asks how I found the last course, and my expression of “that was ridiculous” gets lost in translation — amazing, I assure him. I absolutely adored it.

IMAGINE THREE DAYS of eating fine food, drinking the best wines and hanging out in the coolest hotels. Where do you think you’d be? Paris, with its 30-hour plane trip and hip-pocket draining prices? The Napa Valley with a 14-hour flight to San Francisco and two-hour road trip?

No, try a three-hour flight from Australia’s east coast capitals to one of New Zealand’s best kept secrets — Auckland.

Renowned Kiwi designer Benny Castle says even his fellow Kiwis have an unfair view of the appeal of Auckland, but Benny was quick to talk of the hidden delights of an international city “whose smallness makes it so easy to get comfortable over a delightful long weekend”.

A quick transport from the airport to the SO/ Auckland (SO/ Auckland is the chic version of a Sofitel hotel now popping up all over the place) lands you in the new heart of downtown Auckland, where there has been a migration of hip and high-end businesses from the higher-perched streets, once the centre of the city.

This locale is called Britomart (the locals aren’t sure where the name originated!), the scene of a revival of warehouse and old office blocks into a hotel, restaurant and retail precinct, showcasing the best of creative NZ fashion and design. This is where you find everything from the unique creations of Van Cleef & Arpels to all that you might want in the beautifully restored corner building that houses Tiffany, as well as the best of what Kiwi-design can offer from the likes of Benny Castle’s WORLD store to the dresses of long-established NZ designers like Trelise Cooper. By the way, Benny also lovingly and so meticulous designed and set the mood for this SO/ Auckland.

And for those who work up an appetite or thirst shopping, you’re a stone’s throw from some of the most inviting eateries, all showcasing the wonderful produce of the land of the long white cloud, which is New Zealand. The calibre of the restaurants in the hotels that now reside near Auckland harbour is world class.

Day 1

My first brush with the outstanding culinary efforts of Aucklanders was on the first night where we were treated to the Asian fusion masterpieces of chef Marty Kindleysides at the SO/ Auckland’s restaurant, Harbour Society. Marty tags his work as a “New Zealand spin on Asian cuisine” but that’s an understatement. It’s courageous Kiwi creativity that offers Speckle Park Beef Tournedo, which actually came with crayfish and prawn dumplings, broccolini chicken sauce and crispy skin chicken! Did I say courageous? It was to die (or is that fly?) for!

For the less adventurous, Cloudy Bay clams spaghetti, was something a diner would never forget.

Day 2

Day 2 revealed the best kept secret none of my Kiwi colleagues have ever raved about, and I suspect it’s because they don’t want to share Waiheke Island with their cousins across the ditch!

A 40 minute ferry ride across Auckland Bay, which is like Sydney Harbour without the Bridge, Opera House and excessive residential development. You arrive at a wharf that’s tagged the Waiheke Island Paradise. The island’s climate is strongly influenced by the surrounding sea and is partially protected from the prevailing colder/wetter west and southwest winds, making it both drier and warmer than Auckland.

It’s a parcel of land around 19km long, 9km wide at its widest and 92 square kms in area.

The place is surrounded  by yellow sandy beaches, rolling hills reminiscent of the south coast of New South Wales and harbours 30 boutique wineries.

We sampled the homemade delights of an Italian-influenced winery and restaurant called Poderi Crisci, a family owned vineyard, the product of four generations of making wine and food. Antonio Crisci made his name in Auckland with his famous Toto restaurant and later with Non Solo Pizza with his partner, Vivienne Farnell, in Parnell.

Needless to say, the Lasagne al Pesto Rinforzato will never be forgotten by whatever links my brain to my tastebuds and Tiramisu aficionados have to believe a trip to the Island is worth it just to try one of the best Italian desserts ever!

After that unforgettable day, a one hour session on a running machine was needed to prepare me for our evening meal at the Sofitel, where once again the restaurant — La Maree — was of a standalone high-end calibre.

Located on Viaduct Harbour Auckland, the hotel looks down on boats more valuable than most houses, parked in side-by-side moorings and has a feel akin to what you see at Sydney’s Woolloomooloo. For swimmers not courageous enough for a harbour plunge, there’s a 25 metre indoor pool — you don’t often see that in international hotels.

The fare at La Maree was predictably sea-oriented, and we were treated to the incomparable quality of Ora King Salmon, which is described as the Wagyu Beef of the seafood world.

The species was introduced in the late 1800s from Northern California as a game fish but since the 1980s Kiwis have been farming their king salmons into a first-class industry.

Day 3

Day two started with the Benny Castle tour that finally ended at lunch in a warehouse Italian-themed bakery and restaurant called Amano.

Dominated by big tables and long queues of hungry Aucklanders, this what the founders says about their unique eatery: “It’s about humble, attentive service delivering rustic, Italian-inspired fare.” And they achieve this in spades.

The tagliatelle with Canterbury black truffle and egg dough pasta and parmesan was beyond humble and the Agnolotti with Hawke’s Bay angus beef filling egg dough parcels was beyond unique.

Back to the SO/ Auckland and another hour on the running machines and a long promenade along the main shopping streets of Auckland and we were ready for our last night of incredible eating.

By this time we trusted the cooking of Kiwi chefs cooking in hotels, so we looked forward to what we were set to savour at BODA atop of the Movenpick Hotel.

This Swiss-created groovy hotel is another favourite eating place for Aucklanders and the night began with a Kiwi take of the famous Italian Bellini, which ran ahead of yet another innovative New Zealand-style spin on Asian cuisine.

If you want proof, think about these and get ready for your mouth to start watering:

1. Glazed beef short ribs with sticky sweet chilli, celery, carrot and cashew.

2. Stir fried tofu noodle, gochujang and veggies.

3. Grilled octopus with sambal, ginger, lime and choi sum.

And yes, I needed another hour on the running machine in the morning as I prepared for the flight home but as I clocked up the kilometres before diving into the SO/’s 20 metre indoor pool, I reflected on how this once best kept secret had alluded me but how it will no longer be off my rest, recreation and restaurant shortlist.

It took less than three days to convince me that our Kiwi cousins have something they should be happy and proud to share, not only with us Aussies but the world of tourists who would be happy to put Auckland on their A-list of potential holiday destinations.

The writer was a guest of ALL – Accor Live Limitless (ALL.com)

FOR DECADES NOW, Louis Vuttion’s monogrammed luggage has been synonymous with luxury travel, and now the storied maison is providing the destination too.

Situated in the White 1921 Hotel in St Tropez, Louis Vutton’s expanded presence into hospitality is being entrusted to Michelin-starred chef, Mary Sacko, the head of acclaimed MoSuke in Paris. Named Mory Sacko at Louis Vuitton, the seaside restaurant takes its cues from Africana and Japanese influences, underpinned by the savoir-faire of French gastronomy.

Lunch offerings have been reported to include a gourmet interpretation of the Japanese lunch box known as eikiben, featuring glass containers on a bespoke wooden tray.

Sacko’s influence extends beyond the vegetable-forward menu — the restaurant has been painstaking decorated in collaboration with the maison to include travertine, wood, rope and rattan. A verdant green wall has been sculpted to display the Louis Vuitton monogram emblems.

This isn’t the first Louis Vuitton has ventured into the culinary world. The maison’s Osaka flagship store houses café, Le Café V, and restaurant, Sugalabo V — the latter only seating an intimate few diners each night

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WITH OUR INTERNATIONAL borders open, planes grounded for more than two years are now airborne, with not a spare seat to be seen. Intrepid travelling Aussies are out in the world again, on the boulevards of Paris and the back streets of towns and villages in the south of France, and spotted across Europe and the UK, where restrictions on moving around are almost non-existent.

Forget PCRs and RATs – people are largely unmasked and unstopped by requests to show vaccination certificates. Covid’s old news, at least in parts of the northern hemisphere, where people are gathering in the old-fashioned way, together in person.

With many of us committed francophiles, returning to the land of the baguette has been first on the list, as we reconnect with art, music, fashion, markets and the great pleasure of people watching. One drawback that can make time in France a touch uncomfortable is an inability to speak French. Once Parisians were loathe to communicate with anyone who made gestures to ‘parle le francais’.

I recall years ago after studying French for some time, bursting out with “Bonjour, Madame, est-ce que Notre Dame près d’ici?” only to watch this Parisienne put her fingers to her ears as if she thought my innocent attempt to speak in her native tongue would translate into an ear drum rupture, with my broad Australian accent and untested throat muscles not allowing me to roll my r’s, or letting my words flow so sweetly to produce melodious tones. She didn’t reply, and quickly walked away. I should have said this but it’s far too impolite: “Quel est exactement votre problème, Madame?”

But this time it’s different.

I’ve been travelling with three other Australians and two Kiwis as guests of Van Cleef & Arpels, the high jewellery brand known for exquisite jewellery. These days the French (particularly those in Paris) seem to be only too happy to assist bilingual wannabes like me wanting to give their language a go. And because when we’re travelling we’re really only wanting to ask about hotel rooms, the location of restaurants and art galleries and “Do you have those divine Hermès sandals in my size?”, there are some easy tips you can follow to help you be more French in France.

But a quick word beforehand as to why we were in Paris and the south of France. The main reason was to celebrate Van Cleef & Arpels launch of their Perlée collection. At the same time we undertook further education in the art of high jewellery making, and the history around this. The French are known the world over for their ‘savoir faire’ and to experience up close the skill and passion of these master craftsmen was a beautiful and joyful experience.

Now you’re in the picture about the reasons for this French immersion, let’s go through some light language tips to really let yourself be absorbed by a sojourn in magical France:

1 / Be confident

Avoid saying your French is bad or that you only speak ‘un peu de français’. Often the reply is that they speak only a little English, so you’re on equal footing there. I use a line like this: “Bonjour, j’essaye a parler le française. J’adore votre langue. Si’l vous plaît, aidez moi”.  In English, this translates as “Hello, I’m trying to speak French. I love your language. Please help me”. I tried this recently in a café in Cannes called Jamin on Rue des Belges, at the back of the Boulevard de la Croisette, which is right on the waterfront. The bread, patisseries and coffee in this small cafe straddling the road are too good to be true and so well-priced. Two women were looking at my attempts to communicate and smiled, giving me exactly want I wanted: omelette, tomato, salad and bread with and a mint tea, to be taken outdoors not inside the café (sur place).

2 / Use your hands wherever you can

Europeans are very physical people and communicate well beyond words, with expressive facial and hand gestures. While trying to buy hair spray, I couldn’t recall the word so in French I said I wanted to buy ‘it’ but used my hands to spray around my head while making a hissing noise. At first, I was offered hair mousse but hissed louder and eventually we connected. And a big smile ensued. Best thing was, while enjoying the most amazing experience with media from all round the world at the launch of the Perlée collection at Palais Bulles (a property owned by the late Pierre Cardin now on the market for 370 million euros!), when the fireworks went off around midnight, my hair didn’t move. Putting yourself out of your comfort zone always pays off!

3 / Time’s on your side

Never feel you have to rush what you want to say. Words like “Merci beaucoup, s’il vous plaît, bonne journée” are good phrases to show you simply want to say “thanks and have a great day”. Have a list of phrases like this at hand and even if you have to look at your phone list of frequently used words or expressions, that’s fine. 

4 / Build your vocabulary

Look around you for words and keep your ears wide open for how they’re pronounced. Key words are everywhere so you get the full association of a word and what it means. When I checked into my hotel room I read the labels on the bathroom products, and when looking for a shower cap in one of those small white boxes, I came across this one: “Bonnet de douche”. Love the idea of wearing a bonnet in the shower!

5 / Make it fun

It adds so much to any experience to have great fun. After two years of living lives that were more than a tad restrictive and unusual, it’s time to get out and enjoy each day and every experience. Markets are a great place to pick up everyday language (maybe even a few words you shouldn’t use!). You’ll be intoxicated by the sight and aroma of fresh fruit and vegetable markets. Our food is fabulous but the French have a way of making things so good to the eye. C’est incroyable! Here’s my tip — get out and live like you’ve never lived before. And if you’re in Cannes in the near future, take a boat or ferry out to La Guérite on Île Sainte-Marguerite. Order from the menu in French. You might order something you didn’t expect but that’s the fun of it. 

This great trip taught me more in five days about high jewellery, workmanship, hospitality, the value of a brand like Van Cleef & Arpels and how important it is to have fun, than I could ever have imagined. 

The 17^th century French writer and poet Jean de la Fontaine four hundred years ago penned the story of The Hare & The Tortoise, one of the many fables he wrote with a moral to each one. La Fontaine was a great believer in learning while having fun. Now’s the time to learn from our experience of the last two years and put magic into our daily lives, and like the French, surround ourselves with beauty, whether that manifests itself in the best of food, wine, craftmanship, art, jewellery, or simply learning the most beautiful language of all. C’est la vie, n’est pas? 

The Romantic poet William Wordsworth talked of ‘spots of time’. We can’t remember every detail of every day but we do remember stand out things. Wordsworth says that these spots of time are capable of “lifting us up when we are fallen.” So squeeze in as many’ spots of time’ you can in your life – lasting memories are made of these. And make those memories in French as often as you can. Life is so beautiful.

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